PUBS & TAVERNS

Black Horse London Deli 
1514 Union
(415) 928-2414

Officially speaking, San Francisco is a non-smoking city. Sure, there are a number of bars that brazenly flout the law, but there is one -- only one -- spot in town where smoking is absolutely legal. How do they do it? Owner Joe Gilmartin is the sole employee. This tiny bar, situated close to the Union St. shopping district, is literally the smallest bar in San Francisco. There's a nice pub-style ambience, and good pub food, too. Even non-smokers can find something to like here.

Martin Macks Bar and Restaurant 
1568 Haight
(415) 864-0124

Every night, Irish expatriates and Haight Street locals drop by to drink a pint with the friendly bartenders, hang out with their friends, or order up a plate of the fine Irish food. The atmosphere is enhanced by traditional Irish music, techno, opera, and rock, and some nights, the customers jump up on the bar and dance.

Bubble Lounge 
714 Montgomery Street
(415) 434-4204

Champagne stars on the menu at this elegant bar in the heart of the Financial District, an offshoot of New York's premier Champagne bar. Some say the Bubble Lounge is a little too swank for its own good -- cell phones are omnipresent and the joint reeks of attitude -- but there are times when nothing but a slim, sparkling flute of Moet will do. The lounge serves more than 300 different labels of champagne and sparkling wine -- 30 available by the glass -- and entrée-size appetizers like foie gras and yellow fin tuna tartare. The Bubble Lounge's entrance leads to a colonial-styled space dominated by an elegant mahogany bar extending through the full length of the lounge. Ten "salons" surrounding the bar feature velvet brocade-covered sofas and armchairs in hues of gold and black. The dress code is "casual elegant" -- no hats, shorts or tennis shoes are allowed.

Beach Chalet Brewery & Restaurant 
1000 Great Highway
(415) 386-8439

Master brewer Scott Turnnidge rotates seven ales a week, plus a delicious house-made root beer, at this popular watering spot. Located on the inland side of the Great Highway on the edge of Golden Gate Park, the Beach Chalet attracts a noisy, cheerful mix of tourists, suits and beachcombers. Be sure to check out the murals of Lucien Labaudt, whose Depression-era works also grace the lobby of Coit Tower. Or just gaze happily at the ocean -- sunset is the most beautiful time of day here.

Tonga Room 950 Mason Street
(in the Fairmont Hotel) 
(415) 772-5278

The Tonga Room is a tropical paradise complete with Tiki gods, lots of exotic foliage, and a genuine lightning-and-thunder rainstorm every 15 minutes or so. Happy Hour here is a city institution; for only $6, plus a one-drink minimum, feast on all-you-can-eat chicken wings, egg rolls and other Polynesian treats. Located in the ornate Fairmont Hotel atop Nob Hill, the Tonga Room also features a pond in the middle of the lounge; various cheesy pop bands play on a floating stage. It's campy, fun, and another must-see on a trip to San Francisco.

Vesuvio 
255 Columbus Street
(415) 362-3370

A North Beach classic founded in 1948, Vesuvio was a favorite hangout of Beat Generation luminaries like Jack Kerouac. Since it's just next door to Lawrence Ferlinghetti's famed bookstore, City Lights, no trek through the neighborhood would be complete without stepping into Vesuvio for a drink or three -- and the drinks here are pretty good, too. The walls are covered with Bohemian mementos, and it's a safe bet that some of those guys hanging out at the bar date back from the Beat era as well.

Caribbean Zone 
55 Natoma Street
(415) 541-9465

The first thing you notice in this bar/restaurant is the huge plane that's seemingly "crashed" into it. That plane was actually the Doobie Brothers' former touring plane, now an odd but memorable conversation piece. Feel free to climb the stairs into the interior of the plane, noting the airline seats and drink rests -- and the fish swimming outside the plane's windows. It's all an optical illusion, though -- the owners have cleverly placed TVs at the windows. They serve freshly grilled Jamaican jerked chicken during Happy Hour (5-7 p.m.), and feature Salsa dancing Friday and Saturday nights. The Zone gets really crowded on Friday evenings, so get there early if you want a window seat.

Fuse 
493 Broadway
(415) 788-2706

 What used to be a nondescript North Beach burrito joint has been transformed into a stylish, provocatively lit bar -- a neon tube intricately follows the serpentine-shaped bar to what appears to be a giant fuse in the corner. Right at the corner of Broadway and Kearny, Fuse is situated in the middle of a night-life nexus, with well-known spots like Enrico's, the Velvet Lounge, and the Black Cat within walking distance. There's no food, but you're here for the drinks, the atmosphere, and the people-watching. Young, trendy hipsters have Fuse staked out, especially on Friday and Saturday nights, when it's wall-to-wall people, basking in the bright blue glow.

Buena Vista Café 
2765 Hyde Street 
(415) 474-5044

The Buena Vista has been open since the 1890s, and claims to be the first American bar to perfect Irish Coffee. They serve a daily average of 2,000 glasses of the heady and delicious brew ($4) to visitors from all over the world, who are happy to take a break from Cannery Row and Fisherman's Wharf commercialism and rest their aching feet in this weathered old café. There are round oak tables and a mahogany bar overlooking the San Francisco Bay.

Harvey's 
500 Castro Street
(415) 431-4278

Trivia Mondays are the big draw for this Castro Street bar in the middle of Boys' Town. A crowd of trivia buffs -- young, old, gay and straight -- groups into 20 teams to vie for a first prize of $25, second prize of $15, and third prize of a round of shots. Under the strict eye of Trivia Mondays founder Jack Muehlenthaler, players go at it in six rounds (2 video, 2 audio, and 2 verbal) of questions on music, TV, movies and more esoteric subjects like U.S. history. There are also prizes for best team name (bad taste is encouraged.) The bar is a fine place for a drink any night of the week, but Trivia Mondays have become a neighborhood institution.