Twenty Four

Twenty Four 24 Willie Mays Plaza (at Third St., in Pacific Bell Park) (415) 644-0240 Food type: New American cuisine Average entrée: $18 Bender rating: 3 Credit cards: all major Famous dish: Grilled wild salmon   Now that Pacific Bell Park has finally opened -- to fanfare, crowds and a renewed San Francisco city spirit -- the crowds of baseball fans gotta eat something. A batch of restaurants has sprung up around the park, and Twenty Four aims to capitalize on the baseball fever with its dark-panelled, old-timey sports ambience and baseball-themed décor (like photos of baseball's earliest female players) and even the occasional live on-the-spot radio broadcast by KNBR. Twenty Four offers a "New American" cuisine, meaning fresh, seasonal ingredients, with special attention paid to seafood, and plenty of appetizers and desserts for the before-and-after-game crowd. There's a corn chowder; a Bibb lettuce salad with toasted hazelnuts and shredded gruyere; grilled wild salmon with roasted onions, fingerling potatoes, artichokes and spinach; and braised short ribs with a sauce heavy with drippings and red wine; sauteed sea bass; and gently spiced crab cakes. Desserts include Muscat granita, an Italian ice made from sweet Muscat wine; apple pie in a buttery crust; peach cake and chocoate souffle cupcake with pistachio ice cream. -- Lisa Tsering

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