4001 N. Clark Street
at Irving Park Road
Admission free.
Gates open at 8am and close at 4:30pm
For architects and
historians, going to Graceland is a little like being
invited to a really great party with lots of celebrities.
Actually, it’s a lot like that, except that there are no
cocktails and the celebrities are all dead.
Founded in 1860,
Graceland Cemetery is the final resting place for
virtually all of Chicago’s early leaders. Among its
monuments and mausoleums are works by her greatest artists
and architects, many of whom are also interred here. Its
pleasant park-like configuration and native plantings are
the legacy of landscape architect Ossian Simonds, a
founding member of Holabird, Simons and Roche who
subsequently served as cemetery superintendent for forty
years.
Marvelous examples
of changing taste in art and fashion are literally cut in
stone in Graceland’s confines. From Egyptian obelisks
and pyramids to classical temples and Arcadian ruins, an
American enthusiasm for the eccentric and extreme is on
display alongside examples of our more famous Puritan
restraint. Sculptor Daniel Chester French designed the
monument titled “Memory” for Marshall Field’s tomb;
Lorado Taft’s “Silence” marks pioneer Chicagoan
Dexter Graves’ site. Louis Sullivan’s tomb for the
Getty family is justly celebrated, his characteristic
fecundity of ornament balanced with classical proportions
that presage Modernism.
Sullivan himself
lies here, with colleagues and peers John Root, Daniel
Burnham, and the later Titan, Ludwig Mies van der Rohe,
while a modest stone marks the grave of structural
engineer Fazlur Khan, whose genius made the Sears and
Hancock Towers possible. Commercial and industrial powers
are represented by George Pullman, Philip Armour, Marshall
Field and Cyrus McCormick. They join Richard Nickle, a
photographer and dogged champion of architectural
preservation who was killed in an accident in 1972 while
documenting the demolition of Adler and Sullivan’s 1894
Chicago Stock Exchange Building. Here, too, is the
nineteenth-century grave of John Jones, a self-educated
tailor who became, as two-time county commissioner, the
first black man to hold elected office in Cook County.
Pulitzer Prize-winning political cartoonist John
McCutcheon, Bauhaus alumnus Lazlo Maholy-Nagy, and the
poetically yclept Cunegunda Bilowitz all lie here with
others who may have special significance, perhaps, only
for you.
It’s important to
remember that Graceland is a cemetery, not an amusement
park, and your respectful behavior will be appreciated by
fellow visitors. In winter, the cemetery is particularly
beautiful, but names and dates for many of the dead may be
obscured by snow.
An informative and
sprightly guide, “A Walk Through Graceland,” is
available at the Chicago Architecture Foundation bookstore
at 224 South Michigan Avenue.
Still photography is
permitted; no video/camcorders may be used.